I can understand the cravings, the not being able to stop, the hunger.
Part of this need made me realize early that I was probably prone to addictions. I happily embraced not liking the smell of cigarettes (and later, marijuana). I was glad that I didn’t like the smell of beer or alcohol. Any tastes of those “vices” just confirmed what the smell told me: yuck! I was happy because I felt that if I had liked them, I would have taken up smoking or drinking and I would become addicted; I would be the chain-smoker, the alcoholic.
(Another big factor that kept me from drugs and drinking was that I didn’t want to lose control. I had fainted too many times as a pre-teen, and it’s an awful feeling to regain consciousness and not know what has happened. Worse was after surgery, where I couldn’t remember getting dressed or speaking with the doctor – so, to not remember things I had actually done! This loss of control may, or may not, bother you!)
So perhaps I became addicted to eating. I used to be gung-ho about things. About running, cooking, gardening, cleaning. Some would say I am obsessive-compulsive about such things. So did I become gung-ho about eating? The only problem is, I didn't want to be gung-ho about eating. Why can't I be gung-ho about not eating? (Well, first of all, it is equally as dangerous to starve yourself.)
And then what happens when you do eat the right things and exercise, and still you gain weight? That is a conundrum the medical world has not yet figured out.
In a normal world, you can listen to your body and it will tell you what you need. But these days, our bodies are so out of balance, that it begins telling you that you need more fat or sugar or ...
What can we do?
Step one: can you figure out why you are eating so much, or eating the wrong things?
Are you eating because you are bored? If you are simply bored and find yourself going to eat, that’s when you should substitute another activity, like going to the gym or knitting.
Are you eating because of association? You can get into a bad habit by reading when you eat, which becomes eating whenever you read. So you should eat at a dining room table and do nothing else, and then you’ll want to hurry and finish eating to get back to your reading! Also, do not eat when watching TV.
Are you eating to stay awake? Instead of eating, chew (sugarless) gum.
Are you eating because you are depressed? Sometimes you don’t really feel depressed or sad. Maybe anxious, or frustrated. Maybe angry or irritated. And you eat to feel better, and often you do feel better, and that makes you want to eat more to feel even better, etc. This is the hard one to solve. A good night’s sleep is the best thing to deal with a normal immediate depression, anxiety, anger, fear, etc. Your body repairs itself and gets itself back into balance during different sleep phases. All these feelings are normal if they last a day or two. It is not normal if they last weeks. That is when you need medical help to get things back in balance.
If you can figure out a specific reason for eating binges, then hopefully you can find a solution. But when you can’t figure it out, it sure makes it harder.
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Laundry Tip - Sorting?
I think everyone knows about sorting laundry, especially separating whites and colors. You used to have to separate delicates from heavier items like towels, too!
But sometimes you don't have enough clothing to fill the washing machine, and you always want a full load. For the environment's sake, don't waste water and wash partial loads!
Now, I am actually going to recommend a commercial product! I know I try to use natural products, but this time... I use Color Catcher by Shout. You throw a small sheet in the washing machine with a mixture of whites and colors, and if any colors are going to run, this sheet magically collects them. You can re-use the sheet for multiple loads, until it turns a dark purplish gray and you feel like it has soaked up enough color!
We have a front-loading washing machine, which recommends that you combine a variety of weights of clothing. So the towels don't get washed separately. If you have something so delicate that you wouldn't put it in with a towel, perhaps it needs to be handwashed.
So instead of sorting, I hope as you add clothes to the washing machine, you are:
1) Checking all pockets (Sometimes the only allowance I receive is change from pockets, with an occasional bonus of a dollar bill! Although money goes through the wash without a problem, it's the tissue and crayons that you want to keep out of the washing machine!).
2) Pre-treating all stains (If you don't have time to scrub them by hand, then by all means, use the Shout Stain Remover. I prefer the gel over the spray, since the gel goes right on the stain, while the spray goes everywhere!).
3) Treating all stinky spots with vinegar (See Laundry Tip - Vinegar).
4) Making sure all velcro closures are closed, so that the "hooks" aren't exposed to grab at other clothing.
5) Closing all zippers.
6) Hooking bras, again so that hooks aren't free to grab.
7) Unbunching socks (a scrunched-up sock will stay that way and not seem to get clean inside the crunched parts!).
8) Tying strings together, like the strings on a hooded sweatshirt or on a men's bathing suit. If you don't tie them together, one end could get caught on a velcro hook and get pulled out entirely. And what a pain it is to string it back through!
But sometimes you don't have enough clothing to fill the washing machine, and you always want a full load. For the environment's sake, don't waste water and wash partial loads!
Now, I am actually going to recommend a commercial product! I know I try to use natural products, but this time... I use Color Catcher by Shout. You throw a small sheet in the washing machine with a mixture of whites and colors, and if any colors are going to run, this sheet magically collects them. You can re-use the sheet for multiple loads, until it turns a dark purplish gray and you feel like it has soaked up enough color!
We have a front-loading washing machine, which recommends that you combine a variety of weights of clothing. So the towels don't get washed separately. If you have something so delicate that you wouldn't put it in with a towel, perhaps it needs to be handwashed.
So instead of sorting, I hope as you add clothes to the washing machine, you are:
1) Checking all pockets (Sometimes the only allowance I receive is change from pockets, with an occasional bonus of a dollar bill! Although money goes through the wash without a problem, it's the tissue and crayons that you want to keep out of the washing machine!).
2) Pre-treating all stains (If you don't have time to scrub them by hand, then by all means, use the Shout Stain Remover. I prefer the gel over the spray, since the gel goes right on the stain, while the spray goes everywhere!).
3) Treating all stinky spots with vinegar (See Laundry Tip - Vinegar).
4) Making sure all velcro closures are closed, so that the "hooks" aren't exposed to grab at other clothing.
5) Closing all zippers.
6) Hooking bras, again so that hooks aren't free to grab.
7) Unbunching socks (a scrunched-up sock will stay that way and not seem to get clean inside the crunched parts!).
8) Tying strings together, like the strings on a hooded sweatshirt or on a men's bathing suit. If you don't tie them together, one end could get caught on a velcro hook and get pulled out entirely. And what a pain it is to string it back through!
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Weight Watching - The Basics
Remember that it is harder to lose weight when you are older (over 40 years). The only advice I can give is: try not to gain the weight in the first place.
That can be difficult, because you have to juggle so many things.
Yes, if you take in fewer calories, and burn off more calories, the math should result in decreased weight. However, there are two other important factors that make the math more complicated.
1) Stress. If you can reduce stress in your life, do it. Unfortunately, stress is just a part of life these days, so you have to do all kinds of things to counter stress - like breate, laugh, sing, exercise, play, hug or be hugged. Now, those things that people usually do to cope with stress, like alcohol, drugs, smoking, or physical violence, will make things worse in the long run.
2) Sleep. Sleep is important for your body to get itself back in balance. Get your 7-8 hours per night. (More sleep than that can be unhealthy!).
As you get older, you should be eating less because your metabolism is slowing down. I know how difficult that is to do, because I love to eat, and to try new foods, and...
So you think you will just exercise more, but then your body won't let you exercise at the same pace, because of arthritic knees and sore backs, getting dizzy or losing your vision. That makes it more stressful... You can see the vicious circle going on here.
Develop a life routine of eating moderately at regular intervals, exercising or playing regularly, and sleeping at consistent time. The same routine or schedule very day.
Yeah, right!
That can be difficult, because you have to juggle so many things.
Yes, if you take in fewer calories, and burn off more calories, the math should result in decreased weight. However, there are two other important factors that make the math more complicated.
1) Stress. If you can reduce stress in your life, do it. Unfortunately, stress is just a part of life these days, so you have to do all kinds of things to counter stress - like breate, laugh, sing, exercise, play, hug or be hugged. Now, those things that people usually do to cope with stress, like alcohol, drugs, smoking, or physical violence, will make things worse in the long run.
2) Sleep. Sleep is important for your body to get itself back in balance. Get your 7-8 hours per night. (More sleep than that can be unhealthy!).
As you get older, you should be eating less because your metabolism is slowing down. I know how difficult that is to do, because I love to eat, and to try new foods, and...
So you think you will just exercise more, but then your body won't let you exercise at the same pace, because of arthritic knees and sore backs, getting dizzy or losing your vision. That makes it more stressful... You can see the vicious circle going on here.
Develop a life routine of eating moderately at regular intervals, exercising or playing regularly, and sleeping at consistent time. The same routine or schedule very day.
Yeah, right!
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Housework: Making the Bed Part II
Next we will deal with how often you change the sheets on the bed.
(You may want to see what someone else says: "The Survive and Thrive Boomer Guide" at http://boomersurvive-thriveguide.typepad.com/the_survive_and_thrive_bo/2009/06/how-often-should-you-change-your-bed-sheets.html)
We have always changed them at least once a week, and if there were any problems (bed-wetting of any sort, bloody noses, etc.) they were changed immediately.
Assuming you bathe or shower every night before getting into bed, you may be allowed to go longer between changing sheets.
But if you read, are flatulent, count money, eat, or wrestle in bed, think about changing the sheets more often!
It helps if your mattress and pillows are covered with hypo-allergenic, allergen barrier protectors. Invest in these, and you will only need to change the sheets and pillowcases, and not the mattress pad and pillows! There are those who save time by sleeping on top of their bedding so they do not have to make the bed. But the purpose of sheets is to protect your mattress, pillows, and bedspread from your body and its oils, flaking skin, dandruff, drool, snot, bacteria, viruses, dirt, scabs, cosmetics, ear wax, loose hairs, semen, yeast, toe jam, blood, sweat and tears. When you sleep, you should only be touching your sheets and pillowcases. The blanket should have a sheet between it and you. Pulling the blanket up to keep warm? Make sure you fold the sheet over the edge of the blanket to pull it up! Otherwise you will have to wash the blanket weekly!
In summary, the cleaner you are when you go to bed, the longer you can wait to change the sheets. And if the only things you touch when sleeping are the sheets and pillowcases, then those are the only things you need to wash frequently.
Of course, there is spring and fall cleaning which requires you to thoroughly wash everything!
(You may want to see what someone else says: "The Survive and Thrive Boomer Guide" at http://boomersurvive-thriveguide.typepad.com/the_survive_and_thrive_bo/2009/06/how-often-should-you-change-your-bed-sheets.html)
We have always changed them at least once a week, and if there were any problems (bed-wetting of any sort, bloody noses, etc.) they were changed immediately.
Assuming you bathe or shower every night before getting into bed, you may be allowed to go longer between changing sheets.
But if you read, are flatulent, count money, eat, or wrestle in bed, think about changing the sheets more often!
It helps if your mattress and pillows are covered with hypo-allergenic, allergen barrier protectors. Invest in these, and you will only need to change the sheets and pillowcases, and not the mattress pad and pillows! There are those who save time by sleeping on top of their bedding so they do not have to make the bed. But the purpose of sheets is to protect your mattress, pillows, and bedspread from your body and its oils, flaking skin, dandruff, drool, snot, bacteria, viruses, dirt, scabs, cosmetics, ear wax, loose hairs, semen, yeast, toe jam, blood, sweat and tears. When you sleep, you should only be touching your sheets and pillowcases. The blanket should have a sheet between it and you. Pulling the blanket up to keep warm? Make sure you fold the sheet over the edge of the blanket to pull it up! Otherwise you will have to wash the blanket weekly!
In summary, the cleaner you are when you go to bed, the longer you can wait to change the sheets. And if the only things you touch when sleeping are the sheets and pillowcases, then those are the only things you need to wash frequently.
Of course, there is spring and fall cleaning which requires you to thoroughly wash everything!
Housework: Making the Bed Part I
If you were paying attention, you have learned to make the bed using the military method (which is detailed in an article at "The Art of Manliness": http://artofmanliness.com/2009/11/19/how-to-make-a-bed-you-can-bounce-a-quarter-off-of/), because I learned from my father, rather than from my mother who was used to rolling up a futon from the floor and sticking it in a closet.
I am in favor of letting the bed air out a bit before making it (and in a related matter, I do not like to sleep in a room that is shut up tight. Either leave a door or a window open. Otherwise, the room may smell raunchy.)
But why make the bed at all? Now that you are adults, I suppose it is a personal preference or just laziness that will dictate what you do. I just need some order in my personal life, as opposed to the disorder out there in the world.
And although you may not care what your friends think, I swear the pest control guy does a more thorough job when he sees a nice neat home.
But perhaps the greatest reason to make the bed is to keep the dust and other creatures out of the bed. So at least pull up the bedspread!
I am in favor of letting the bed air out a bit before making it (and in a related matter, I do not like to sleep in a room that is shut up tight. Either leave a door or a window open. Otherwise, the room may smell raunchy.)
But why make the bed at all? Now that you are adults, I suppose it is a personal preference or just laziness that will dictate what you do. I just need some order in my personal life, as opposed to the disorder out there in the world.
And although you may not care what your friends think, I swear the pest control guy does a more thorough job when he sees a nice neat home.
But perhaps the greatest reason to make the bed is to keep the dust and other creatures out of the bed. So at least pull up the bedspread!
Sunday, January 24, 2010
Laundry Tip - Vinegar
Sunday is laundry day at our house. So laundry tips are likely to come on Sundays!
I use vinegar (white distilled vinegar) because:
a) it is environmentally-friendly,
b) it is wallet-friendly (purchase a gallon or more container, and pour some into a smaller bottle for use in the laundry room),
c) it is versatile.
As I begin to load the washing machine, I will put vinegar directly on:
1) underarms of clothing that have yellowed or have deodorant build-up, or on underarms of sweaty clothing to prevent yellowing and deodorant build-up,
2) on the traditionally stinky parts of underpants (i.e. where men have flatulence and where women have discharge).
I routinely add a tablespoon in the fabric softener dispenser of my washing machine in addition to the usual detergent. (A quarter cup is recommended, but since I have a front-loader, I use half that amount, or less depending on how much vinegar I used to "pre-treat"!)
I NEVER use liquid bleach or fabric softener.
There are at least "1,001 Uses for Vinegar"which you can check out at: (just Google it)
http://www.vinegartips.com/Scripts/
and specifically for laundry:
http://www.vinegartips.com/Scripts/pageViewSec.asp?id=8
So why do I use vinegar specifically in regards to laundry? Because
a) I usually use only cold water to do the laundry, I need something to handle the germs, mold and mildew.
b) If your water is hard, vinegar will act as a water softener and boost the power of your detergent and decrease soap scum.
c) Most of our clothes are made from natural fibers like cotton, so they need milder treatment.
I use vinegar (white distilled vinegar) because:
a) it is environmentally-friendly,
b) it is wallet-friendly (purchase a gallon or more container, and pour some into a smaller bottle for use in the laundry room),
c) it is versatile.
As I begin to load the washing machine, I will put vinegar directly on:
1) underarms of clothing that have yellowed or have deodorant build-up, or on underarms of sweaty clothing to prevent yellowing and deodorant build-up,
2) on the traditionally stinky parts of underpants (i.e. where men have flatulence and where women have discharge).
I routinely add a tablespoon in the fabric softener dispenser of my washing machine in addition to the usual detergent. (A quarter cup is recommended, but since I have a front-loader, I use half that amount, or less depending on how much vinegar I used to "pre-treat"!)
I NEVER use liquid bleach or fabric softener.
There are at least "1,001 Uses for Vinegar"
http://www.vinegartips.com/Scripts/
http://www.vinegartips.com/Scripts/pageViewSec.asp?id=8
So why do I use vinegar specifically in regards to laundry? Because
a) I usually use only cold water to do the laundry, I need something to handle the germs, mold and mildew.
b) If your water is hard, vinegar will act as a water softener and boost the power of your detergent and decrease soap scum.
c) Most of our clothes are made from natural fibers like cotton, so they need milder treatment.
Saturday, January 23, 2010
Bathroom Tip - Toilet Paper
The Great Over or Under Debate...
You know: when you replace the toilet paper roll on the toilet paper roll holder, should the end of the roll come forward over the top of the roll, or should it drop down behind?
Others have already thoroughly studied this problem,and I refer you to Current Configuration (http://currentconfig.com/2005/02/22/essential-life-lesson-1-over-is-right-under-is-wrong/).
My preference, is of course, over the top, mostly because of the location of the toilet paper roll in relation to my hand when I am sitting on the toilet. When I reach for the toilet paper, my hand is more often above the roll, thus it is easier to grab the end if it is on top. I do not like searching for the end under the roll, when I'd rather be done and doing something else.
Now, if a man were to ever use toilet paper after doing #1, he would also be above the toilet paper roll, and you know you want to make things as easy as possible for him.
However, my main advice for replacing the toilet paper roll is - JUST DO IT! Please don't leave an empty roll!
Thank you!
P. S. Also, please don't leave just one square of toilet paper on the roll for someone else. If you can't find a use for it, then leave it on top of the new roll you have just installed. Thanks!
You know: when you replace the toilet paper roll on the toilet paper roll holder, should the end of the roll come forward over the top of the roll, or should it drop down behind?
Others have already thoroughly studied this problem,
My preference, is of course, over the top, mostly because of the location of the toilet paper roll in relation to my hand when I am sitting on the toilet. When I reach for the toilet paper, my hand is more often above the roll, thus it is easier to grab the end if it is on top. I do not like searching for the end under the roll, when I'd rather be done and doing something else.
Now, if a man were to ever use toilet paper after doing #1, he would also be above the toilet paper roll, and you know you want to make things as easy as possible for him.
However, my main advice for replacing the toilet paper roll is - JUST DO IT! Please don't leave an empty roll!
Thank you!
P. S. Also, please don't leave just one square of toilet paper on the roll for someone else. If you can't find a use for it, then leave it on top of the new roll you have just installed. Thanks!
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